This story about a little bar could as well have been called coffee-, crisis- or courage- instead of castle of Quirra. Yet, it is about more than coffee, while crisis is not a story but reality according to the bar keeper and as concerns the courage, it just lacked for the 20 minutes climb to reach the castle on this warm late October afternoon. So about the bar of Luciana and Franco Agus, it is the first sign of life when coming from the abandoned Baccu Locci arsenic mine where I am now working already more than 2 years helping to clean the pollution. In the morning, they serve me an excellent coffee (café macchiato) with sweet pastry (pasta) and in the afternoon, I get a fresh bun (panino) with raw dried ham (prosciutto crudo) and some of the best sheep cheese (pecorino) of the Island. Franco inherited the little bar from his father 38 years ago, when Quirra counted still 200 inhabitants and anybody going from north to south along the east-coast of Sardinia had to pass by. A beautiful beach and military aerospace practice grounds nearby guaranteed even more regular clientele with ample news from the world outside. Then 6 years ago came the highway passing at only a few kilometers distance but a world apart as hardly anybody stopped anymore. Now only 50 inhabitants are left at Quirra and on top of that it appeared that the military may have practiced a bit too much with uranium hardened grenades so that the mere suspicion of radioactivity shut down the base and closed the beautiful beach nearby. Yet one is still welcomed by the same rock and roll at the Bar of Quirra and so I guess this is how the courageous confront a crisis, showing how to hold ones ground as if defending a castle. It only lacks that magnificent view in all directions, from the sea to the mountains and from the past into the future, but that remains for the next time, as that castle is only a really short and easy walk away anyhow.